Piedra del Peñol

When it comes to tourist destinations in Medellin, Piedra del Peñol is one of the most attractive sites. Hundreds of tourists visit to observe and climb the big rock each year.

It is a massive inselberg or monolith about 200 meters (656 feet) tall. This rock outcropping is located near Guatape and is popular among tourists from all over the world. Aside from being a popular tourist attraction, its existence dates back to 65 million years ago. Over the years, it has witnessed several generations of indigenous people and modernization – all embedded in its rich history. El Peñón de Guatapé has a storied history from well before it was “discovered” by the outside world, which makes present-day visits all the more interesting. 

Historical Background of El Peñón de Guatapé

The rock has stood for millions of years, and most of what we know about it comes from much more recent times. Even though we aren’t exactly sure how it came to be, El Peñón de Guatapé was able to resist erosion compared to the rest of the Antioquia Batholith. While the rest of the granite formation slowly fragmented and wore down over the millennia, this part remained as a whole.

Before modern-day Colombians inhabited the Antioquia region, it was home to the Tahami, an indigenous people group that viewed the rock as an object of worship. Although the rock may not be worshipped any more, it was declared a National Monument in the 1940s. 

The rock may have been scaled at some point. However, the first documented climb was in July 1954. This was done by Ramón Díaz, Pedro Nel Ramírez, and Luis Eduardo Villegas López, who climbed with the help of sticks. They wedged the sticks into fissures that ran along the length of the rock. This provided a makeshift ladder with which they ascended. It took them five days to reach the summit of the rock. This risky yet successful adventure spawned the interest in making the rock climb-friendly. 

El Peñón de Guatapé could not be used for farming, so locals had no interest in holding onto it. They sold it to López, who quickly built permanent stairs to the top and started charging visitors for a climbing experience. 

Ownership Controversy

Although nobody disputes who legally owns El Peñón de Guatapé, its ownership has been contested by two towns. Over the years, the neighboring villages of Guatape and El Peñol have been in a dispute. As a result, people from each city call it different names. It is known as “El Peñón de Guatapé” by residents of Guatape, while people of El Peñol call it “La Piedra del Peñol.” Both names translate to “The Rock of Guatape” and “The Stone of Peñol,” respectively.

Attempting to claim the rock for the town, a Guatape resident tried to spell out GUATAPE on the rock’s western face with white paint. However, the painter could only complete the G and part of the U when a mob of protestors from El Peñol stopped the activity.

Efforts have been made to resolve the conflict. Local leaders and community representatives have engaged in discussions to find a mutually agreeable solution. However, the deep-seated emotions and competing interests made it challenging to reach a consensus.

Geological Details and Scientific Significance 

Piedra de Peñol, otherwise known as El Peñón de Guatapé, is a tall inselberg that forms part of the Antioquia Batholith. An inselberg is a body of rock that protrudes due to weathering and erosion of surrounding areas. 

Formation of the Rock

The formation of the Penōl de Guatape dates back to 70 million years ago. These began with volcanic activities in the Cretaceous period. This period was characterized by the movement of lithospheric plates and magma within the Earth’s crust. Over time, the magma cooled and accumulated under the Earth’s surface. This formed an igneous rock known as granite, the main component of the rock. A study showed that this formation occurred during the Pliocene due to tectonic shifts and erosions. The rock was pushed above the Earth’s surface due to constant weathering and erosion of the surrounding areas. A geomorphic analysis conducted on the rock in 2024 suggests that the erosion rates range from 0.0024 to 0.24mm/yr. Also, exfoliation of the rock’s surface due to temperature changes helped to mold the rock into its distinctive dome shape. 

Composition of the Rock

The rock is made of granite, which contains three minerals: quartz, feldspar, and mica. These are similar to minerals found in other parts of the batholith. However, other areas comprise other deposits, including plagioclase, epidote, chlorite, and sphene. Also, some parts found in Santa Rosa de Los Osos contain bauxite deposits. 

Why Has It Existed this Long?

Several monoliths within the batholith have eroded over the years due to many factors. One significant factor is the differences in their mineral composition. While the granite of the rock is resistant to weathering and erosion, the granodiorite found in other parts of the batholith is not. A higher proportion, 65% to 90%, of the feldspar in granodiorite is plagioclase. The feldspar mineral reacts with water to produce clay. This weakens the rock, fueling weathering and erosion. Also, tectonic faults and riverbeds beneath some rocks encourage weathering.  

Indigenous Cultural Background 

The Tahami People

El Peñón de Guatapé holds a cultural and historical significance to the residents, especially the early inhabitants. The indigenous Tahami people lived in the region many million years ago. To them, it was a spiritual symbol, as they believed that spirits inhabited the rock. As a result, they worshipped the stone. They called it mójarrá or mujará in their language, which means “rock.” In reverence, several ceremonies and rituals were performed on the rock. These rituals included offering food, flowers, crafted items, and more. 

Aside from the rock, the Tahami people believed that nature was divine. The surrounding water and forest were thought to possess some mystical powers. However, such beliefs have been lost in history since the advent of the colonizers. The Tahami people were enslaved and assimilated into other belief systems. 

What Remains of the Culture?

Now, pieces of their culture remain as legends passed on as folktales and oral traditions. An example is a tale of the devil’s attempt to carry the rock away. Stories have it that the devil tried to bring down the rock with an axe, as he did not like that many people visited it. He could not because God stopped him. The only damage he could cause was a large hole at the base of the rock, which is still present today. 

People also believe that it is a landing place for witches when it is past 9 pm. The story of an elf who moves along the steps in search of good believed to be hidden in the rock has been spread. 

The Construction of the Staircase

According to many, the first attempt to build stairs on the rock occurred in the 1940s. The ownership of the rock was contested by two families, the Galeano and the Diaz. Attempting to claim it, the Galeano family started a staircase project to reach the top and mark it with a flag. The project was stopped, and the staircase was never completed. 

The first successful climb in 1954 spawned interest in climbing the rock and making it a tourist site for visitors. Lopez, one of the trios that climbed the rock, bought the rock and began the construction of a staircase.

The staircase was designed and constructed along the natural vertical crevasse. This ensured the stairs were anchored securely without affecting the rock’s structure. It also reduced the challenges of chipping away other parts of the rock, which could make the rock unstable. The distinct zig-zag pattern of the staircase was determined by the fissures along the crevasse where reinforced concrete was embedded. There are 740 stairs, including a 3-story lookout tower if climbers feel like taking a few steps more for a better view.

Although the construction was initiated and financed by the owners, the Villegas family, local participation played a significant role. The community of Guatape recognized the potential of El Peñón de Guatapé as a tourist attraction and rallied behind the project.

The residents provided labor, materials, and expertise to help build the staircase. Their contributions were essential in transforming the once-inaccessible rock into a popular destination. The community’s involvement not only facilitated the construction but also fostered a sense of ownership and pride in the landmark.

Challenges to the Construction

With every engineering work come peculiar challenges. Constructing a staircase on a 650-foot rock is not only challenging but daring. Here are a few drawbacks and their solutions:

• Terrain: The uneven surfaces and steepness of the rock made it difficult to attach materials. To solve this problem, the builders utilized the crevasse and its fissures. The crack provided a pathway for the construction, while the fissures served as anchor points.
• Transportation of Materials: This was a challenge due to the rock’s height, slope, and slippery surface. As a solution, manual pulleys were used to lift materials.
• Safety: Workers’ safety was another concern. The height and terrain provided little or no safety for laborers. Proper scaffolding, ropes, and platforms were used to prevent falls.
• Stability: Strength must be considered in constructing a 740-step staircase. Reinforced concrete was used to provide strength to the stairs. The zig-zag pattern of the stairs also helps to distribute the weight equally. 
• Aesthetic concerns: The staircase provided access and turned the rock into a tourist site. However, the beauty of the rock was taken into account during construction. They avoided any work that could deface the surface or alter the natural structure of the rock. Therefore, the staircase was constructed along the natural crevasse. 

Safety Features for Climbers

For a height like that, the safety of the climbers was a vital consideration in the construction. Handrails and landing stations were added to prevent falls and provide rest to climbers. Also, to minimize collisions, the stairs are demarcated for ascending and descending. 

Maintenance of the Staircase

Built over 60 years ago, several maintenance works have been carried out on the structure. The high volume of climbers recorded has led to wear and tear on the structures. There have been periodic inspections and repairs of damaged stairs and handrails to ensure safety. The rainy season poses a serious challenge to maintenance. Rain runs off the stairs and erodes the base of the staircase. However, there have been constant efforts to reinforce the base and ensure adequate drainage.

Emergency Response

Scaling a 220-meter-high rock comes with several risks. These include falls, collisions, and even lack of oxygen. Although there are measures to prevent such incidents, emergencies can occur. 

First Aid and Emergency Facilities

There are two emergency care points along the stairs. One is located at the base of the stairs, while the other is halfway. These areas are equipped with emergency toolkits and are manned by paramedics. 

How are Emergencies handled?

The response is managed by the local authorities, who provide the emergency services. There are no health facilities on the rock, but the town has clinics that can handle injuries. They are supported by ambulances and aeromedical transport in case of transfers to hospitals. 

The recent Landslide

Accidents and falls are rare around the rock due to adequate preventive measures and precautions. However, on 2 November 2023, loose soil and plants from the rock fell on tourists who were admiring the stone. The incident was captured in detail in a video circulated online around that time. There was no fatality recorded, but 17 persons sustained various injuries. Eight victims were treated on-site, while the rest were transferred to medical centers in the town for full attention. Geological analysts established that the fall was due to the heavy rainfall the previous day, which weakened debris on the rock.

Impact of Weather on Safety

Although the weather in Guatape is typically temperate and mild all year long, the region experiences rainfalls almost every season. It rains the most in April and November. When it does, water runs off the stairs. This can be dangerous for climbing as it can cause falls due to slippery surfaces.

Economic Impact of the Rock 

Given how popular this destination is for tourists, it’s no surprise that the stairs to the top are dotted with vendors of all types. With over 700 stairs to climb, many people are happy to purchase refreshing beverages and local foods along the way. At the top of the rock is a bar where visitors can drink beers while they take in the views. Also, many souvenir vendors are available to sell anything from handmade local items to postcards. It is safe to say that this attraction site has created a means of livelihood for locals over the years.

Although El Peñón de Guatapé is an iconic landmark in the area, and the nearby towns of Guatape and El Peñol are fun to visit, many visitors are actually tourists that come from Medellin. This is because both cities are small, and the rock takes just a few hours to climb. However, Medellin has enough to keep tourists busy for days, and it is within short driving distance of El Peñón de Guatapé. As a result, many tourists in Medellin decide to book a Guatape tour at some point rather than planning a multi-day trip to the area.

In 2023, Guatape hosted about 990,000 tourists, a tremendous increase from the 100,000 visitors recorded years ago. It is estimated that about 5,000 people scale the rock daily.

The access fee of $5 ensures the generation of millions of dollars yearly. Aside from the revenue from the rock visits, many local businesses benefit from the high influx of visitors. The markets, hotels, and restaurants generate more revenue through tourism. The transportation sector is not left out, as it ensures visitors get by in town.

The Hydroelectric Power Project

The history of El Peñón de Guatapé is not complete without highlighting the conception, construction, and impact of the hydroelectric power plant on the inhabitants of the town. In the 1930s, when the regions around Medellin experienced massive population growth, there was a panic that residents may have to look for water from neighboring cities. This was supported by an article published the same year titled, “Medellín morirá de sed dentro de 50 años. Hay que salir del Valle de Aburrá”. This headline translates to “Medellín Will Die of Thirst within 50 Years; We Must Leave the Aburrá Valley”. This contributed to the quest to find a source of water.

Already, engineers in the country noted the potential of El Penōl, Guatape, and other towns to contribute to the hydroelectric power generation in the country. The Punchina Dam was designed to support the San Carlos hydroelectric plant through the creation of the El Penol-Guatape reservoir, also known as the Punchina reservoir. The reservoir also powers the Guatape hydroelectric power plant, which generates 560MW, 4% of the country’s power generation.  

The Punchina Dam was launched by Interconexion Electrica S.A in 1973. It was supported by a loan from the World Bank in 1978. Construction began in 1979 and ended in 1983. The earth-filled embankment dam built on the Guatape River has a crest elevation of 785 meters above sea level. The dam created the El Penol-Guatape reservoir of 72 million cubic meters, which flooded the rural communities, displacing the original residents of El Peñol.

Impact on Local Communities

Releasing that they would vacate their homes, the people opposed the project. There was only little they could do, as the project still had to proceed. However, they were able to sign an agreement contained in a document called Contrato Maestro, which had 95 clauses that would mitigate the effect of the project. Parts of the clauses were to provide housing units 57 kilometers away from the village and ensure sociocultural integration. As part of the relocation plan, over 1000 graves were exhumed from the cemetery, now part of the new community, El Nuevo Peñol. Besides providing smaller houses for only families, many of the clauses were violated. The selection criteria for the new homes prioritized families and excluded single individuals, like widows and widowers, leading to the loss of family ties. Eventually, the villagers had to move, not just their properties but memories of their traditions and culture – a challenging experience. Also, their means of livelihood were adversely affected. The lake created by the reservoir shifted the occupation of the town from agricultural activities to tourism. However, agriculture has since been reactivated, but not entirely, as the city still focuses on tourism. 

The flooding not only displaced the residents but also changed the entire ecosystem. The once natural landscape consisting of elaborate Roman-structured houses, slow-flowing rivers, and rich agricultural fields was replaced by motionless lakes and small identical buildings.

Pros and Cons of the Hydroelectric Project 

Although the power plant project came with several benefits, it is associated with many drawbacks. Here are a few

Pros

• Increased energy production: The hydroelectric plants in the region contribute about one-third of power generation in the country
• Promotion of tourism of the lakesides created by the reservoir.
• Increased revenue generation
• Employment opportunities for locals

Cons

• Displacement of inhabitants from their original homes
• Severance of family ties
• Loss of memories, traditions, and culture of their traditional space.

Modern Development Plans 

Climbing 740 stairs is a challenging exercise, even at the thought of it. Nevertheless, the beautiful view of the scenic landscape from the top and the sheer will to conquer the task keep climbers going. 

The Proposed Cable Car System

There have been speculations of a plan to construct a cable car system that can ease access to the top of the rock. However, it is only a suggestion made by locals and visitors. Currently, such a project has not been confirmed by the government or any private entity. However, it would be helpful to the physically challenged, elderly, and persons with illnesses where excessive physical exertion is forbidden.

Aside from the suggested cable car systems, the other infrastructure around the rock is improving. These include larger parking areas, more retail spots, and promoting water sports in the reservoir. Improvement of the pathways, enhancement of the signs, and construction of rest areas are efforts to increase accessibility.

Sustainability Initiatives

Steps have been taken to promote and converse the natural beauty of the rock and the areas around it. Below are a few implemented initiatives and policies.

• Reforestation: Reforestation programs have been implemented to restore degraded areas and increase the forest cover surrounding the rock. This helps to protect biodiversity and prevent soil erosion.
• Wildlife Conservation: Efforts are being made to monitor and protect wildlife species that inhabit the area. This includes the creation of wildlife corridors and policies to prevent habitat fragmentation.
• Water Quality Management: Measures are being taken to protect the water quality of the surrounding lakes and rivers. This involves monitoring water pollution levels and implementing measures to reduce pollution from human activities.
• Waste Management: Promotion of proper waste management to prevent pollution and protect the environment is ongoing. This includes the collection and disposal of waste in an environmentally responsible manner. In fact, the local authorities banned the sale of single-use plastics like polystyrene, plastic straws, coffee stirrers, and more. This helps to reduce waste and keep the town and areas of the rock tide.

By adopting sustainable practices and implementing conservation efforts, El Peñón de Guatapé can continue to be a popular tourist destination without affecting the environment. These initiatives help to preserve the natural charm of the area for future generations to enjoy.

Local Life and Culture

The existence of the rock and flooding of the old villages shaped the life and culture of the locals over the years. Residents shifted focus to tourism, neglecting agriculture, which used to be their major endeavor. 

The large number of visitors the rock receives yearly has provided a market for locals. There are local shops at the base of the rock, while mobile vendors litter the stairs with their merchandise. Other locals specialize in transporting and guiding tourists around the town. Many residents also render paddle-boarding, canyoning, and jet-skiing services. 

Additionally, the rock is symbolic of many festivals in Guatape. During the Samba Santa (the holy week), the rock and lakeside become a pilgrimage spot. The town also celebrates its heritage through art and music events. This heritage is depicted by the colorful art decorations on the walls, known as zócalos.

Interesting facts

Tourism in Guatape has improved over the years. Now, visitors do not only focus on the rock but also on other historic places and events in the town. There are many side attractions and sites worthy of exploring. 

Hidden Viewpoints and Special Locations

Aside from the summit, there are a few other viewpoints on the rock. Several alcoves at strategic places on the stairs allow a closer view of the surroundings. Also, the backside of the rock offers a quieter view, as not many tourists reach there.

The rock is just one of the major attractions in Guatape. Below are a few selected spots worthy of a visit.

La Manuella Ruins: 

This is the remains of the lakeside vacation estate of the popular drug lord, Pablo Escobar. The home was seized in the 1990s and was burnt by a rival gang in 1993. All that remains is the ruins of the once beautiful piece, sitting in a serene location that overlooks the lake.

Vibrant Zócalos

These are the beautifully painted panels on the walls of several houses on the street. This shows the rich art, history, and trade of the people of Guatape. In fact, there is a square called the Plaza del Zócalo, where you will find the town’s famous zócalos. The streets to the plaza host a colorful display of suspended umbrellas. The square also leads to the most popular street in Guatape, Calle del Recuerdo. It is popular for its ancient cobblestone floor. A stroll through the streets allows you to feel the immense history of the town.

Jet Skiing

Supported by the vast lake, jet skiing has been an adventure favored by most visitors. Several rentals are available at the shore. With about $20, you can get an exciting ride through the waters for 30 minutes.

Canyoning the Guatape River

The Guatape River flows through many gorges and falls, and canyoning through the waters offers an exciting adventure. From San Rafael, a neighboring village, you can embark on a 5-hour  canyoning escapade.  

When is the Best Time to Visit?

The great rock of Guatape does not lack visitors. Many tourists come from far and wide to see this beautiful piece of nature. However, seasons, weather conditions, and time of the day influence the visitations. 

Weather

Guatape enjoys a mild, temperate, and stable climate all year round, except for brief periods of dry season. The dry seasons are usually from December to March and July to August. The temperature ranges from 21⁰C to 24⁰C, irrespective of the season. For a safer climbing experience, the dry season is the best time to explore the rock. 

Crowds

Seasons and festivals determine the volume of tourists in Guatape. It is calmer and scanty on weekdays, while the weekends are busier, as locals come from neighboring towns to unwind. Also, the city is usually busiest on holidays like Christmas and Easter.

Lighting

For a visit to the rock, mornings are usually the best time. You are sure of tickets and less crowd for a peaceful climb. Also, it is the best time to capture the rock and the lake in cool and soft lighting. On the other hand, the mid-afternoon offers the best time to capture the vibrant colors of the town.

Other Features You May Miss

Climbing the 740 stairs can be demanding, and visitors may focus entirely on getting to the top. In so doing, they may miss subtle features of the rock and its environs. There are many vertical crevasses, fissures, and cracks where many plant species grow. In fact, a new species of plant named Pitcairnia heterophylla was discovered at the top of the rock.

At the base of the rock are other rock formations that surround the lake. This shows the remains of the city before the lake. The water submerged hills and valleys of the old town, creating a unique underwater terrain. There are stories of sighting ghosts near the submerged cross of the church. Claims of hearing the old church bell from the water at night have also been reported.

The Place of Piedra del Peñol in the Country’s Tourism Sector

El Peñón de Guatapé fits perfectly in the Columbian tourism landscape. Closer to Medellin, it complements the diverse tourist attractions in the region. Located in the artificial lake of Guatape, it contrasts with Cartagena, a coastal area, and the Amazon, a rainforest. These beautiful places have contributed to the country’s economic growth through tourism. Also, the reservoir fueled massive infrastructural development and energy production.

Connection to Other Nearby Attractions

The rock links visitors to many nearby adventure spots. A close destination is the colorful town of Guatape, with street walls carefully padded with artistic zócalos. Others include San Rafael for swimming and hiking, La Manuella, Medellin, and more. Oftentimes, these places share the same visitors due to their close proximity.

Accessibility

Guatape is about two hours away from Medellin, where most tourists come from. There are many means of transportation, including private tour buses, commercial buses, and taxis. With an organized day trip, a tour bus will pick you up from your hotel for a journey to destinations in Guatape. However, with about $3.35, you can take a bus to  Guatape or the Rock. A taxi will be the best option if you need comfort, but it is pricey. About $60 is enough to cover the trip, but it is best if you are with family or a group.

Many visitors organize a day trip from their hotels in Medellin to Guatape. Others may choose to stay back to catch the excitement of the nightlife. There are many accommodation options available, including elegant hostels and lakeside hotels. 

Management of the Rock

El Piedra del Peñol is of historical, cultural, and geological importance. It connects the present day to the indigenous Tahami people, the original inhabitants, who worshipped the rock. As a result, the Columbian government recognized it as a national monument in the 1940s.

However, the rock is owned and managed by the family of the first climber, Luis Eduardo Villegas López. He bought the rock from the local farmers and built the steps on it. His family makes a profit from entrance fees. However, the revenue is used to maintain the stairs and surrounding structures. 

Bottom Line

El Piedra del Peñol is a magnificent piece of nature that is exciting to climb. Each step up the stairs offers a broader view of the beautiful landscape. The rock contributes to the economic development of the town and the country. Although the path was painful, the power plant increased the energy production capacity of the country.

The town of Guatape also offers many attraction sites. The zócalos, La Manuella, and Calle del Recuerdo are notable places to visit. Interestingly, these places are not expensive or difficult to access.