Vibrant. Spirited. Colorful. These are the words that spring to mind when we think of the Comuna 13 of today. But this wasn’t always the case. Once Medellin’s most violent community, Comuna 13 was once one of the most dangerous communities on the planet. Today, however, the story couldn’t be more different. Now a spirited community known for its expressive street art and inspiring transformation story, San Javier as it is also known, stands as a powerful testament to the strength of the human spirit and the transformative power of art and community. Join us as we explore the history of this living reminder that even in the face of adversity, hope and creativity can pave the way for a brighter future.
Humble Beginnings: A Brief History of Comuna 13
The vibrant community known today as Comuna 13 began as a humble farming settlement. Originally founded by displaced farmers fleeing violence in Colombia’s rural areas in the early 20th century, the community was initially called Las Granjas (The Farms). In 1946, however, it was transformed into a more residential area through the establishment of a housing cooperative. This marked the beginning of the community’s evolution from a modest farming settlement to the Comuna 13 we recognize today.
Following this transformation, the community experienced a second wave of migration, this time from people fleeing La Violencia—a decade-long conflict between guerrilla groups and the Colombian government in Antioquia. These illegal settlers were often discriminated against and labeled as invaders by the residents of the newly established Comuna 13. With no other options, they created informal settlements on the surrounding hills which would later merge with the rest of the community as the settlements grew, giving rise to the landscape we identify as Comuna 13 today.
Trivia No. 1: Neighborhoods like Las Independencia I, II, III, and Nuevos Conquistadores were largely built by this group of migrants.
The Seeds of Violence
Although beginning as a relatively peaceful farming settlement, Comuna 13 would go on to experience some of the most extreme cases of violence ever recorded in Colombia. The seeds of the many instances of violence that’d come to engulf the region can be traced back to the early days of the community’s formation.
As the settlement began to grow and attract immigrants, it began to face challenges with economic inequality and social exclusion. With migrants fleeing conflict often arriving with limited resources, poor, and lacking any real means of employment, they were often quite economically vulnerable. This vulnerability made them easy targets for gangs and guerrilla groups, which frequently used the community as a hub for recruiting new members and expanding their influence. By the 1960s and 1970s, a significant portion of Comuna 13’s immigrant youth population was being drawn into these organizations, laying the groundwork for the cycles of violence that would plague the area for decades.
Dark Times
The seeds of violence that had been planted in Comuna 13’s early years would quickly germinate to produce some of the most turbulent and dangerous periods in Medellin’s history. With gangs from other regions having woven themselves into the fabric of the community, it didn’t take long before gang wars started breaking out in the region, beginning the community’s long history of violence.
Gangs weren’t Comuna 13’s sole problem, however. In fact, many would argue that the real cause of most of the community’s problems was the paramilitaries and guerilla groups in the region. Many of these groups which started as left-wing anti-state rule organizations, stepped in to fill the role of the government in fighting the gangs and building the community. Instead of the positive results they were trying to achieve, however, they only proceeded to spark intense guerrilla warfare in the region. This new wave of violence would go on to become even worse than the gang wars. The guerrilla squads themselves would also go on to begin recruiting teenagers in the region, going on to ensure the circle of violence continued.
Following the devastating effects of the paramilitaries and guerrilla squads in the region, government interference became necessary. Unfortunately, this would lead to even greater violence in the region. Two major operations were carried out by the Colombian government in an attempt to combat the guerrilla squads that had essentially held Comuna 13 captive. On May 21, 2002, at 3 AM, the government would commence Operation Mariscal, a 12-hour operation involving a combined force of the Colombian military and the police force. 15 civilians would be confirmed dead and 35 others injured.
Following Operation Mariscal, Operation Orion would commence on October 16 in the same year to root out the rest of the paramilitary presence in the region. The two-day operation would be successful at chasing off the rest of the guerrilla squads in the region, but after the operation, paramilitaries would re-enter the region and this would be followed by a period of disappearances.
Trivia No. 2: In 2015 mass graves would be discovered near Comuna 13 and would be attributed to silent killings by paramilitary groups within the community. This mass grave would account for hundreds out of the thousands of disappearances that had occurred following Operation Orion.
Recovery and Transformation
The root of Comuna 13’s issue with violence had always been its economic vulnerabilities. Following the community’s focus on investing in social and educational reforms after the events of Operation Orion, along with improving its public infrastructure, Comuna 13 completely rebranded itself. Today, the once-notorious community has hundreds of Comuna 13 tours that have become Medellin’s most popular tourist attraction.
Some of the biggest tourist attractions in the community include:
The Escalators
In 2012, Comuna 13 introduced outdoor escalators that span over 384 meters, a revolutionary addition that changed daily life and tourism alike. These escalators replaced more than 350 stairs, making it easier for residents and visitors to traverse the hilly terrain.
Covered with glass roofs to shield against rain, they wind their way through the vibrant favelas of the community, offering glimpses into local shops and everyday life, offering a surreal sight appreciated by both tourists and residents alike.
Street Art
Comuna 13’s street art is its heartbeat, narrating tales of its past, present, and hopes for the future. Walking through the neighborhood feels like stepping into an open-air gallery. Murals and graffiti, created by local and international artists, cover walls with vibrant depictions of love, loss, and resilience.
During the neighborhood’s transformation, art became a way for the community to reclaim its identity. Guided tours often explain the difference between graffiti, murals, and masterpieces, each with unique rules and significance. There’s the hummingbird symbolizing freedom, and even portraits of local heroes, every piece has a story. These tours not only showcase stunning visuals but also offer insight into the powerful role art has played in healing and redefining Comuna 13.
Cultural Performances
The streets of Comuna 13 are alive with the rhythms of music and dance. Local performers, including freestyle rappers, Afro-Caribbean dancers, and street musicians, showcase their talents in every corner of the neighborhood. For many youths, these performances are more than entertainment—they’re lifelines that keep them away from gang involvement.
Visitors often find themselves drawn into the energy of these performances, whether it’s clapping along to a drumbeat or marveling at the dexterity of a freestyle rap. And if you feel inspired, don’t hesitate to tip the artists. Supporting their craft is a small way to contribute to the community’s ongoing growth.
Bars and Restaurants
As tourism in Comuna 13 has flourished, so has its culinary scene. From small bars with stunning city views to bustling street food stalls, there’s something to satisfy every craving.
Grab a cold beer at a rooftop bar and watch as Medellín’s lights twinkle in the distance during sunset. Or stroll along the main roads and sample traditional Colombian dishes, like arepas and empanadas, prepared with love by local vendors. The fusion of flavors and the lively atmosphere make dining in Comuna 13 a feast for both the palate and the soul.
Guided Tours
Exploring Comuna 13 is best done with a local guide who knows its streets, stories, and secrets. Companies like Medellin Tours offer immersive walking tours led by passionate locals. These tours take you through five distinct neighborhoods, sharing the intricate history of Comuna 13’s transformation.
For art lovers, the Graffiti Tour is a must. Not only does it highlight the vibrant murals, but it also includes a cable car ride for breathtaking views of Medellín. Some tours even combine street art exploration with street food tasting, letting you sample delicious Colombian treats while absorbing the neighborhood’s culture.
If you prefer a more private experience, you can opt for personalized tours with hotel pickup. These tours provide a more intimate glimpse into the neighborhood without the crowds, making it easier to connect with the guides and their stories.
Cable Cars — Soaring Above Medellín
The cable cars that connect Comuna 13 to the rest of Medellín are more than a mode of transportation—they’re a tourist attraction in their own right. Taking a cable car tour offers unparalleled views of the sprawling city and the lush mountains that frame it.
As you glide above the rooftops, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for how Comuna 13 is woven into the fabric of Medellín. Many tours include cable car rides, combining convenience with a breathtaking perspective of the area’s beauty.
Independent Exploration
While guided tours are highly recommended, exploring Comuna 13 independently is also an option. However, the neighborhood’s maze-like layout, with its steep stairs and winding alleyways, can be disorienting for first-time visitors. Stick to the main paths, and don’t hesitate to ask locals for directions—they’re often eager to share their community with visitors.
Independent exploration allows you to set your own pace. Wander through the art-filled streets, chat with local vendors, and discover hidden gems like tiny art galleries tucked away in the hills. Just remember to stay mindful of your surroundings, as getting lost in the labyrinth of alleys is surprisingly easy.
Art Galleries
Beyond the street art, Comuna 13 is home to unique art galleries showcasing works by talented local artists. Some galleries feature ultraviolet pieces glowing under blacklight, creating an otherworldly effect. Whether you’re browsing for souvenirs or simply appreciating the creativity, these galleries are gems that accentuate the neighborhood’s flourishing artistic culture.
Finding these galleries often requires a bit of exploration though, as many are tucked away from the main roads. But the reward is often worth the effort. Each piece you encounter is a glimpse into the spirit of Comuna 13.
A Transformation Story Still Being Written
Comuna 13 stands as a testament to the fact that even places with a history of extreme violence and terrible hardship can undergo a remarkable transformation and come out more beautiful than ever. The community that had once been one of the most dangerous parts of Colombia has become one of the country’s biggest tourist attractions. In many ways, that’s Comuna 13’s message to every tourist who experiences its unique beauty. It’s a message of hope and a testament to the power of change.
The message goes like this:
No matter who you are, no matter your past, if I can change my story, then so can you!
